Riso Acquerello

Where: Vercelli, Piemonte

Who: The Rondolino family

What: Carneroli rice

Website: acquerello.it

We are now importing Italy’s best rice! Carneroli is harder to farm than Arborio, but it hydrates better. Maria Nava Rondolino asserts that it might not be amateur technique that leads many home cooks to create gummy, leaden risotto: it’s the quality of their essential ingredient. I met Maria Nava at a food show in Florence, on a recommendation from our favorite wine photographer and Piemonte fiend Jeff Bramwell. Her family farm, Tenuta Colombara, has been in existence since the 15th century. According to Rondolino, Carneroli makes better risotto because it has a larger grain than arborio, and a more stable starch structure. Acquerello age their rice for 18 months before milling, a process that results in a grain less likely to stick to the pan. Their gentle milling process removes the bran without damaging the grain. The rice only improves with additional aging. 

After several scientific experiments in Jeff’s kitchen, I can attest to the overall brilliance of this rice, and the relative ease in making ideal risotto, if you start with Acquerello. Rondolino claims nothing is necessary: just the rice and water. And that approach does yield a tasty meal. The larger truth is that rice of this quality needs far less adulteration. A little salty Alpine butter, some carefully prepared chicken stock. Or go nuts: take Acquerello for a spin. As Maria Nava joked, ““What should a [Fiat] Cinquecento be used for, if you have a Ferrari?” This rice leaves arborio in the dust.